A rainy night at Hugo’s
The hostess walks me over to the bar and hands me the over-sized, leather covered menu. I park myself on a rather uncomfortable bar stool and glance up at a muted TV tuned to the Weather Channel.
It’s a cold and rainy night in Houston. Houston streets are infamous for flooding; I’ve heard that they’re actually designed to flood. In fact, there are some intersections that flood when the humidity reaches 95%.
Long ago I adopted a policy of “alcohol is better than water:” if it’s raining too hard I stop and get a drink while everyone else nervously drives to wherever they need to be so quickly. I take time to relax and only surface again when the weather clears.
“What would you like?” asks my bartender/waiter, Carlos. It’s only expected, I guess, that my server at Hugo’s Mexican Restaurant would be named Carlos.
I’ve been paging through the thick menu. I move past the extensive and impressive wine list. I’ve been a Houston Wine Geek twice this week already, I’m more of a Drinking Out Club kinda guy tonight.

“How about a paloma? Are they any good?”
“The classic paloma is best, it’s authentic,” says Carlos.
Authentic? Would he know? Carlos has that urban chic kind of look and not a hint of an accent. I’m guessing he’s never set foot in Mexico. Besides, the menu says it’s made with Corralejo Blanco tequila and Hansen’s soda. I doubt there’s much Hansen’s sold in Mexico.
The authentic paloma is Mexico’s rum and Coke. Mix tequila and grapefruit soda in just about any proportion, with a splash of lime to balance it out. Skip the lime of you want.
Paloma
2 ounces blanco tequila
6 ounces grapefruit soda
1/2 ounce lime juiceshake tequila and lime, pour over ice in a salt-rimmed tall glass, top with soda
“Sure, I’ll try one. And bring me the ceviche appetizer. Sounds like they’ll go great together.”
Carlos punches in my order and walks to the other end of the bar. He pours a few ingredients into his mixing glass along with some ice and shakes it casually for a short while. With his back to me, he fills my glass. I’m the only guy in the bar and I’m missing the show.
Carlos brings me my drink. In a few minutes my appetizer arrives, delivered by another server.
This bar food combination is outstanding. The Hansen’s-based paloma is, if not authentic, well-balanced and flavorful. The ceviche’s red snapper is perfectly marinated with lime and paired with just the right amount of avocado. There’s no tomato salsa, thank goodness, but a pleasing blend of not-too-spicy pico de gallo. Salty, freshly-made tortilla chips round out the meal.
It’s still raining. Looks like I’ll be here awhile.
Hugo’s
1602 Westheimer Road at Mandell
Houston TX 77006
(713) 524-7744
www.hugosrestaurant.net